Where to next?!

I am writing this from the island of Roatan, Honduras. It is one of the three main islands that make up Bay Islands. Another is Utila - it is also habitable, but much less developed. We've heard good things about both, but we haven't met any travellers who have been to both. The main reason is it is difficult to get from one to the other. Normally, one must go back to the mainland, then go to the other island. So, like everyone else we had to make a choice. We weren't sure which one we would go to, but our means of transportation decided for us that Roatan would be our destination. And it is beautiful - this has to be the happiest place on earth. Highly recommended. We had a really nice christmas here - at the last minute, deciding against all the turkey dinners offered for a feast of king crab and lobster instead. After all, how many times is that a christmas dinner option? All in all, it was a very relaxed, laid back week, except for the car that started on fire christmas afternoon...but that's another story...

But alas, the time has come to move along, so we devised a plan...we'd take the ferry back to the mainland and from there head out on chicken buses to Gracias - we could be there before nightfall. Good. Done. Or was it??

Nope. The day we planned to leave, the ferry couldn't run as the waters were to rough. No big deal, we'd just stay another night and leave the next morning. Good. Once again - Done. Or...?!

Nope. That night before bed, we decided to stop for one last beer on the island and started chatting about how we would be sad that we didn't get to see Utila being as we were so close. Then I decided to get another round and also threw in a question to the bartender out of curiousity..."Do you know if there is any possible way to get to Utila without going to the mainland and back again?" Just a question. Or was it?? It could have been. But again, no. She said, "well, why don't you wait until the day after tomorrow and come with us?" I stared blankly back, after all I had no response, the truth was, well, I hadn't really thought of that particular alternative.

Long story short, tomorrow morning we will sail to Utila because the particular bar we sat down at was opening a new bar in Utila so they had made arrangments for their staff/friends to sail over for the grand-opening and could easily fit a couple of straglers with their backpacks and muddy old shoes.

The joy is the journey after all. Gracias will just have to wait...

Happy Holidays from Honduras!

Merry Christmas!

Telica

I know it has only been a few days, but well, it´s laundry day, and it´s 40 degrees outside, so there is some time to post the last adventure and enjoy a break from the sun.

Sunday morning, bright and early and after a nice breakfast we packed up tents and warm clothes and food and litres upon litres of water and set out for Volcano Telica. The hike was not as technically gruelling as the last, but it also wasn´t any easier as this time we carried our heavy packs and walked almost 6 hours in direct sunshine. Finally, we arrived at the top and set up camp, then climbed the rest of the way to the peak of the crater. This volcano, unlike the last, is active. It is rated ¨orange¨which means, if you feel a tremor - RUN! The last eruption was in 2000.

It was amazing!! We stood 2 inches from falling inside the crater as the gases poured out. The view was incredible! And if you looked hard enough, there was a tiny speck of lava shining through the gases. Sadly, that glimmer was all the lava we got to see as the gases were to thick and the sun to bright. But that night as we all sat around the camp fire, losing count of the millions of stars and listening to the volcano and the breeze, we weren´t sad about the lack of lava - no, just a little overwhelmed at having stared in the eye of a volcano. Quite the reminder that the earth is alive. Swirling and gurgling and popping and hissing. I won´t soon forget that sight!

So, we´ve been doing this for a few weeks now and for the most part it has been great! If I have one complaint it is about the food - not that the food isn´t delicious - it really is (the coffee too!!). But there is a lack of variety here. I would give my first born to anyone who offered me a perogy!! Mmmmm...with mushroom sauce and a side of sour cabbage rolls and a slice of deer sausage....sigh...

Tomorrow we will leave Nicaragua and cross into Honduras. Our first destination will be the Bay Islands, which will take us 2 days to get to, and there we will spend Christmas. Diving in a shipwreck.

Nicaragua Now

last monday´s conversation from the island of Ometepe, Nicaragua (the largest freshwater island in the world)

¨can we get to Granada from here?¨¨

¨no problem, the boat leaves tuesday.¨

¨great! what time?¨

¨depends on the bananas.¨


And that was the definitive moment. The moment we knew without a doubt that we were no longer in a country that is set up solely, it seems, to cater to the rich American tourist who is there to surf, rent brand new SUVs, drink cheap beer, and meet other Americans - all on daddy´s dollar.

Nope. No more easy ride. Now our transportation will depend on what time enough farmers show up with enough bananas to fill a boat, our menu will depend on the luck of a fisherman, and our luggage will be full of the bugs that fled Costa Rica when the tourists came (only these ones don´t bite).

The Nicaraguan people are very friendly, their smiles so big they barely fit in a picture. Until they start to talk about the corruption, the politics, and the past that is so close it is still the present. Smiles then fade, faces harden, and tears well up. Makes one appreciate growing up in Canada.

We´ve been busy lately - we climbed up and inside the crater of Volcano Maderas on Ometepe island. 4 hours trudging upwards, sat an hour by the lagoon in the crater, then 3 hours sliding down in the mud! We´ve ridden 4 hours in a cargo boat amidst enough bananas to feed 3000 monkeys for 9 months. And we´ve walked though the streets of Granada hearing about the Spanish invasion, the pirate invasions, and enough other information to fill a history book.

On Saturday we will hike to the boiling, bubbling mud holes at the foot of an active volcano by Leon. They say a quick shutter speed will surely catch mud flying through the air. They also say that one wrong step and you´ll be scalded for life. We will pay the $1.40 for a guide.

The heat here is smothering and I have turned a lovely brown shade similiar to the roasted turkey you´ll soon be enjoying. Think of us. We´ll be sitting under a christmas tree ourselves, but sweating while eating beans and rice...again...

FINALLY!

not only did I see a sloth, but I actually touched his wet, matted, hairy butt!!! No kidding, it was raining so hard the other day that we sought shelter on the covered terrace of our guesthouse. Suddenly there was a lot of commotion and then we saw the sloth in the tree across the road! We watched him for awhile then lost sight of him. A few minutes later he appeared again, right on the terrace!! Thing has a pig's snout, vultures claws, and big round (useless) eyes. So ugly he's endearing. If only I had enough room for him in my bag...I'd name my pet sloth Pokey.