Nicaragua Now

last monday´s conversation from the island of Ometepe, Nicaragua (the largest freshwater island in the world)

¨can we get to Granada from here?¨¨

¨no problem, the boat leaves tuesday.¨

¨great! what time?¨

¨depends on the bananas.¨


And that was the definitive moment. The moment we knew without a doubt that we were no longer in a country that is set up solely, it seems, to cater to the rich American tourist who is there to surf, rent brand new SUVs, drink cheap beer, and meet other Americans - all on daddy´s dollar.

Nope. No more easy ride. Now our transportation will depend on what time enough farmers show up with enough bananas to fill a boat, our menu will depend on the luck of a fisherman, and our luggage will be full of the bugs that fled Costa Rica when the tourists came (only these ones don´t bite).

The Nicaraguan people are very friendly, their smiles so big they barely fit in a picture. Until they start to talk about the corruption, the politics, and the past that is so close it is still the present. Smiles then fade, faces harden, and tears well up. Makes one appreciate growing up in Canada.

We´ve been busy lately - we climbed up and inside the crater of Volcano Maderas on Ometepe island. 4 hours trudging upwards, sat an hour by the lagoon in the crater, then 3 hours sliding down in the mud! We´ve ridden 4 hours in a cargo boat amidst enough bananas to feed 3000 monkeys for 9 months. And we´ve walked though the streets of Granada hearing about the Spanish invasion, the pirate invasions, and enough other information to fill a history book.

On Saturday we will hike to the boiling, bubbling mud holes at the foot of an active volcano by Leon. They say a quick shutter speed will surely catch mud flying through the air. They also say that one wrong step and you´ll be scalded for life. We will pay the $1.40 for a guide.

The heat here is smothering and I have turned a lovely brown shade similiar to the roasted turkey you´ll soon be enjoying. Think of us. We´ll be sitting under a christmas tree ourselves, but sweating while eating beans and rice...again...